Day 8 - acclimatisation

I was under the mistaken impression that our extra 'acclimatisation' day here in Dingboche would be a chance to relax and put my feet up. However our leader Hugo advised that the plan was to set off early and climb straight up the mountain above Dingboche, to stay on the top (5000 metres or 15000 feet) for an hour or so for our bodies to start to get used to the lack of oxygen, then walk down again. Getting up took 2 to 3 hours and really got the lungs working. Great views from the top and the sun stayed out. Rest of day spent recovering, with Paul trying to shift a bad headache induced by the climb and lack of O2.
For dinner I enjoyed a tasty Dal Bhat, a type of vegetable curry with lentil sauce that the Nepalese live off. This made a welcome change to the usual 'play it safe' option of egg and chips or similar. Everyone congregates in the dining room in the evening as it is the only room with a fire, it was icy and snowing outside. However each morning is bright and clear, so we go to bed early (as early as 8pm) and get up early.

Day 7 - Pangboche to Dingboche

In the morning Hugo, Amit, Paul and I attended a special Puja ceremony - where the Buddhist Lama blessed Hugo then Amit for their forthcoming climb, and wished them safety. This included a chanting prayer, the placing of a silk scarf around their neck, and the throwing of rice grains. All around the room were plastered photos of climbers on the summit of Everest holding photos of the Lama (Geishi) which must provide encouragement. The Lama kindly performed a mini ceremony for Paul and I too!
Later we enjoyed a few hours stroll up to Dingboche, at about 4400 metres, on the way chatting to other Trekkers of various nationalities including Israeli and South African, as well as taking in views of Ama Dablam from a new angle, it's a great mountain to look at. Dendi our Sherpa/organiser has climbed it 8 times...
On arrival at our lodge I noticed that this high up the accommodation is getting really basic i.e. no more flushing loos and mostly stand up ones (not the cleanest). This combined with having to drink 4 litres of water a day due to the altitude is not a good combination!

Day 6 - first view of Everest and Ama Dablam

Loads better today which was lucky as we had a 7 hour trek to Pangboche ahead. The highlight appeared half an hour after leaving Namche: our first view of Mount Everest, although far in the distance it looked spectacular, as did Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and the Nuptse Ridge which also dominated the skyline. Continued on to Pangboche (3900 metres) to quite a basic lodge where I was glad of a hot water bottle in my sleeping bag!
In the photos Ama Dablam looks bigger because it's nearer, Everest is the peak to the left of Paul's head with spindrift (looks like cloud) blowing off the summit. Ama Dablam is the one on the right, and in the other photo with the prayer flags.
These are just the photos from my phone, will put better photos up when I can.
Thinking about home a bit now as we've been away for a week, missing the girls!!

Day 5

Wednesday started badly due to altitude sickness, Paul with a bad headache and myself headache and vomiting. This isn't unusual when you first reach such an altitude but it was bad enough for Dendi to take us to the local medical centre where the doctor checked us out, prescribed Diamox for mountain sickness, and pronounced us fine to continue with the trek. This was very reassuring and we immediately started to feel a bit better, my vision of having to be rescued by helicopter receded!
We found an Internet cafe in Namche which served great cappuccinos, bought a couple of gifts from local traders, and nearly got mown down by a loose horse cantering down a steep narrow cobbled street.

Day 4

Not feeling so great today, but we carried on to a little town perched in the mountains called Namche Bazaar, altitude 11247 feet or 3428 metres. Its a peaceful place with no cars! Not sure whether feeling ill is due to tummy bug or altitude but hope it'll clear up soon. Luckily we have an extra day or two here to acclimatise.

Day 3

6 am start and the flight I hadn't been looking forward to, to Lukla which has been voted the most dangerous runway in the world. The flight was spectacular in terms of the mountain scenery, but also terrifying as we weaved between the mountains, suddenly dropping to the extra short runway and braking dramatically to avoid the rock face at its end.
The contrast between the chaos of Kathmandu and the calm of the mountains was immediately obvious, the air much cooler and cleaner. We started walking straight away. The tracks are well maintained and every bend in the path reveals a view even more impressive than the last as you ascend. We crossed wire bridges over deep valleys, climbed hundreds of stone steps, sharing the path with yaks, horses, and porters carrying huge loads. 6 hours later we stopped for our first night in a tea lodge in Monjo, pretty basic (no heating) but good simple food.

Day 2

Early start as Hugo took us to the less touristy old quarter of Kathmandu. Lots of photo opportunities including people selling produce on the street. Followed by people desperately trying to sell us jewellery and strange little musical instruments. We ended up at Durbar Square enjoying the view of temples and general chaos below from a rooftop cafe.
A couple of observations on Kathmandu: there are regular power cuts here, due to a 'temporary energy crisis' which has been going on for years - it makes taking the hotel lift more exciting (I know, I should be using the stairs!)
Also, there are very few if any rules on the roads, and more pot holes than roads.